Article Archive: April 2012

Make-up Glowing In The Dark

For those who read this other blog post here and asked me about the khaki eyes at John Rocha’s A/W2012 show, then this is for you. If you pop in here regularly then you’ll know that I’m a bit of a mole at the fashion weeks when it comes to all things cosmetics and beauty and can be found wandering about mumbling and repeating things to myself backstage until I find a blank space in my notebook on which to jot things. My mumbling and scribblings are a combination of respect – how do make-up artists constantly throw up such new and fascinating ideas? – as well as my learning process – if I repeat a thing a few times and then jot it down maybe it’ll help me get my brain around the beauty speak so I can try and translate it? And when it came to understanding Danielle Winkworth’s khaki eye make-up above I mumbled and scribbled a lot backstage because it was something of a fun epiphany. You mean I can……

Mix my colours up on a paper plate, with a brush, or my fingers, like at a birthday party? Any colour I want?

Any colour? Including this green on the eyes?

And the I can mix these other greens into it?

Yes it all looked pretty tame and easy at first, but then I thought of vampires for some reason when I saw the brows being finished in little strokes with a brown pencil and didn’t feel silly for long because….

The inspiration for the eyes was Lord Byron and vampires and the little round green colour palettes being passed around backstage were a hushed secret until I was eventually told that they were theatre eye make-up colours from a palette made by a very, very old German theatre make-up company called Kryolan. The colours were also mixed on hands to get the correct shade of khaki for the eyes.

And the lips? The trick here is to brush on some foundation to take the natural lip colour down instantly and then a touch of lilac from the same 24 colour Kryolan palette gives a vampire wash to the lips.

And just when I think I’ve learnt enough to be able to mix up a batch and play responsibly with Kryolan’s vampire colours and order the 24 colour palette which has these greens I realise that they also do fluorescing ultraviolet colours which glow in the dark. They were used on Coldplay’s Charlie Brown film on fifty dancers. Watching how they glow in the dark in the second half of this Coldplay film just throws up all sorts of summer festival possibilities.

Catching A Wave

Whilst looking through thousands of shots and twirling my hair and thinking about a fresh twist, I happened upon this… it’s from John Rocha and reminds me of a surfer girl who’s emerged from the sea and has wrapped herself in drifting seaweed, kind of perfect for this weekend as it’s warm enough for surfing. I love everything about this picture so I thought I’d give this hair look a try at home. That’s right, I’ve been twisting and wasting a huge portion of the afternoon trying to make my hair behave like this. Here’s the kit and the skills used…

The look was created by Samantha Hillerby (she’s well known in fashion circles for transforming a host of heads including Adele’s hair on that famous October 2011 vogue cover. Remember that?). Anyway her tricks for this look are first using L’Oreal – Professional Tecni. Art Volume Lift Root Lift Spray-Mousse which when applied to the root give volume where needed. The nozzle of this mousse can is small so you don’t get that attack of the killer blob of mousse when you press the top and another secret with it is to use a low setting on your hair dryer (blasting the hair too high can make it all a bit too voluminous). Next spritz Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray (3 or 4 spritzes is enough) and twist the hair into random rope-like sections, then holding the the twisted ends. gently dry each twisted piece. When you release them, it looks as if you’ve just emerged form the surf. Then a tiny amount of L’Oreal Professionnel Techie. art A. Head Clay warmed between the palms of your hands gives a very matt beach hair finish. this product is also good for calming flyaway hair without giving it that shine that distinctive shine that Frizzease gives to frizz. And of course the kit contains L’Oreal Elnett Hairspray and a Mason Pearson brush. I’m sort of semi-loving the smell that goes along with this suffer’s mussed up hair and having tried it this afternoon would suggest having a good Kerestase shampoo on standby to clean off the build-up of product after experimentation. (Trust me it takes two washes). Oh and of course I have a long love affair with my Maison Pearson brush, it takes a little care to keep it looking nice (like a little pet) but it’s my secret weapon for healthy hair so I don’t mind caring for it too much. I’ll introduce it to you tomorrow, it has served me well over time and kind of deserves a little post all its own.