Picture this: ferociously feminine girls swarming all over skinny boys’ pieces backstage at Paul Smith A/W2011. The moment I initially drew close to examine this collection I thought; yes this collection is built on an intriguing mix of boys’ pieces and fabrics, but the collection also evoked an even stronger question…
Have you ever ‘borrowed’ an item from a man’s wardrobe ever? Have you? I’ve done it many times. Would you remember your first menswear ‘borrowing’ immediately? I think you might. Mine was a jumper I ‘borrowed’ from my dad. It was navy and smelt of bonfire, leather and his musky cologne. Its large sleeves swamped my hands and dipped below my fingertips but that made it feel all the more safe and special – I have never returned it. It’s the one thing of his that I cherish.
My second and most significant ‘coming of age borrowing’ like a cheerleader wearing her footballer boyfriend’s jacket, was while I was at boarding school. I took great pleasure and warmth (because the school was old and always freezing) in wearing a boyfriend’s charcoal wool crombie over my school uniform. The coat and relationship are long-since dissolved.
My next borrowing was a casual one at university, a small man’s cashmere jumper – it had accidentally shrunken in a wash and I wore it until it started to unravel at the elbows and finally disintegrated. My conclusions? They’re threefold. First, I like wool jumpers. Second, I’m romantic. well, no not romantic, what’s the word, more… more… more Irish. That’s it! We have an affinity to wool wherever we end up living in the world. Third seeing as I’m in Sir David Attenborough overdrive today and have wandered into more natural science territory, I’m going to turn this idea over now and see what’s underneath. Here’s a thought…
The sensation of wearing a coat-over-shoulders-over-loose layers, items of clothing belonging to a man or a (bigger, taller) person you love… apart from the emotional connection, there’s an added basic feeling of comfort and warmth we get just from the fabrics and proportions alone. Do you agree? That a crombie or trench which offers cover and warmth also offers the grandeur and roominess of a man’s coat. A roominess which lets you layer different pieces underneath while by some magic trick of the eye makes your female form look even more feminine.
And the fabrics – fine wool for trousers and thick gauge knits, how do they make you feel?
Wool, suede and corduroy – these all brush against the skin creating a different sensation than ‘feminine’ fabrics like jerseys and silks. While a large man’s watch strap (old styling trick) can swamp the female wrist in chunkiness and instantly make a bare wrist more feminine, a sleeved hand cushioned in winter wools at Paul Smith was strung with a chunky bag chain and instantly made the hand look more feminine and lithe.
At Paul Smith the cotton shirt and wool jumpers and grandpa cardigans were linchpins of this low-key look. Shirts were sneaked in under boyfriend jackets and coats. This blue shirt sat sweetly under a navy blazer. You might wonder what I was thinking by this point. The answer – my answer, anyway-is back to school. This shirt and blazer look wasn’t unlike what most of us wore to school which we tweaked ourselves by sneaking in an over sized man’s cardigan or sweater underneath as an extra rebellious layer.
Elsewhere in the collection shirts were layered under wool waistcoats and wool cardigans, Perhaps the jumpers and cardigans were not fashion moments in themselves, but the shirt and tie ubiquity signified a broader trend that dominated many of the other catwalk collections.
Shirts and ties and tailored suits and coats stomped down runways on girls across the four fashion capitals. From Paul Smith and Alice Temperley and Nicole Farhi in London to Chanel, Balmain in Paris and Dolce & Gabbana in Milan to Tommy Hilfiger, Jason Wu, The Row and Ralph Lauren in New York.
At Paul Smith, the man’s tailoring in coats hangs nonchalantly from shoulders and collarbones, skimming breasts and waists, which female clothes in comparison hug tight. High necks and long sleeves were all layered to give comfort and conceal the body.
Other pieces were fitted neatly to the body but after the plunging, frilled extravaganzas of summer, this modest menswear movement, in its muted palette of greys, camels, black was a refreshing change carefully enhanced with stripes, polka dots and shots of neon at Paul Smith to add further femininity.
At Paul Smith the ‘borrowed’ theme was always softened by styling; man’s flat loafers and flat laced shoes were worn without laces.
Round-neck wool boyfriend sweaters were teased up at the cuff to reveal cotton shirt cuffs.
Nails were painted in neon hues.
Ties were loosely slung around the necks of cotton shirts with upturned cuffs and Paul Smith glasses were perched on the edges of noses rapscallion style.
Even the buttons were feminised (when I examined them up close Sir David Attenborough style) it’s as if a little row of obedient polka-dot ladybirds landed ready to hold together buttonholes.
Smith had gone to great pains to refit men’s style trousers, coats and jackets to the female form, cropping and cutting so that they hung and fitted just so.
The look was softened at times with layering. A clever layering instruction for Autumn/Winter2011 when wearing your boyfriend ‘borrows’ PLAY with different lengths; NOTE TO SELF: something SHORT worn OVER something LONGER like in these two picture above G. Yes I like this LONG cardigan dropping from beneath this SHORT jacket idea (pic on the left) or alternatively if you’re petite a piece of LONG softly draped knitwear slung OVER a coat which just peeps below it creates a lean tall silhouette. Reminds me again of borrowing a boyfriend’s coat (just to pop out here on the catwalk for a sec).
I don’t think I’m alone in this sentiment. Yohji Yamamoto who launched his label Y in 1972, based it on the idea of a woman borrowing her lover’s clothes and the feelings it created. Through the Nineties and since playing with these proportions was a Helmut Lang trademark. Nearer to home Margaret Howell cuts collections like this and for years at Paul Smith he’s mastered it and made it a subtle running theme. This season however it’s the full on boyfriend look.
It’s further softened for girls with the help of Paul Smith’s bags. My favourite is this black Mongolian goat hair ball of fluff. Paul Smith’s words to the model about to carry it onto the catwalk? “Go walk the dog!”
I should like to close this little sermonette with this observation. Stand for a while backstage with Paul Smith and it isn’t long before he just starts being his amazing self. In the past I’ve interviewed him on film and his attitude is unique.
“You’re just walking down the street”, “Enjoy yourself out there, no modelling now!” “As you would anyway!” These were his instructions to models about to go onto the catwalk at The Savoy’s Lancaster Room. In that pressurized backstage atmosphere where time is precious you can’t fake genuine sentiment like that.
Maybe secretly some of our favourite boyfriend ‘borrows’ have often turned into lifetime loans. And you might think I sound all nostalgic but with such strong emotions attached to this ‘borrowed’ look, it’s no surprise that it works as a full collection and will translate well in the real world.
If you can see things in this way (or at least try to), we’re on the same page here. If, on the other hand, you decide it’s not for you, then that’s fine too. The ‘borrowers’ at Paul Smith showed me a great way to enrich my look and give extra longevity to old pieces which barely received an outing due to the summer murky weather. And for just one brief moment the new Paul Smith collection (and I don’t think I’m alone here), made me wish I was 16 again. That fragile feeling of invincibility that comes with a ‘borrowed’ boyfriend’s jumper. Am I innocent in thinking that a ‘borrowed’ jumper might help me conquer the world?
Tilly Edward Jones says:
I love this post! I’ve definitely on many occasions borrowed a boyfriend’s jumper. Yes it’s always a very intimate thing. I’m just back from a holiday and I brought one of my boyfriend’s shirts to wear to sleep. I like a man’s cotton shirt too. A wonderful post and a beautifully executed collection based on menswear.
September 1, 2011 at 11:33 pm
Gisèle says:
Good point Tilly, a man’s shirt can make an excellent ‘night’ shirt. I’m a bit of a cotton fiend too. x
September 5, 2011 at 3:49 am
Nadia Stam says:
The most thought provoking comment. In movies when I see a girl wearing a man’s shirt it sometimes takes my breath away. Count me in on the cotton fiendness. x Nadia
September 6, 2011 at 12:26 pm
Camilla Rothchild says:
Wow! I’ve spent nearly an hour looking at these photographs. In this post I get a real sense of how Paul Smith’s world works. I already own several Paul Smith pieces and the quality is really good. I would love to add that grey coat to my collection. Hanging in the shops it’s difficult to comprehend how to fit all the pieces together but this is so well explained. Thank You. xx Camilla
September 2, 2011 at 12:40 am
Gisèle says:
I’m rather a big fan of that charcoal grey coat too Camilla. Hope they have enough for all of us. x
September 5, 2011 at 3:52 am
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Frances Johnstone says:
It looks so boy chic! I’m going to look at buying some of this. I love your photos! And your words. You’re amazing Gisele!
September 4, 2011 at 4:50 pm
Gisèle says:
Boy chic, gotta get me some of that Frances. Thank You x
September 5, 2011 at 3:56 am
Claudia Blake says:
Gisèle – thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!
Stuck outside the fashion industry as I am, this is the only chance I get to really see inside so thank you for sticking your neck out for your readers and sharing this experience with us.
I especially like your honesty in your stories, makes me feel like I’m part of the fashion industry as opposed to being shut out by most of the magazines.
The styling in Paul Smith is very tight and it is the first photo in your series which has me thinking; I’ve never thought of putting pieces together like this. It’s very wearable and the layers are good news as the season gets cold! I’d also love to ask you how would someone like me stay up to date with with the collection as it becomes available in the shops? How will I know when the ladybird button cardigan arrives????
Love your blog,
Claudia
September 4, 2011 at 5:31 pm
Tilly Edward Jones says:
Hi Gisèle,
A question I would love your help with as well (only when you have the time of course). Is it OK so show this blog post to shop staff at Paul Smith on my iphone or iPad???? Where can I see the collection for purchase online?
Thank you
Tilly
September 4, 2011 at 6:06 pm
Gisèle says:
If it makes the task of shopping easier for you by all means show the Paul Smith peeps in store the pieces you like. Alternatively the official website is pretty good http://www.paulsmith.co.uk. for browsing the collections. Speaking of your iPad you know Paul Smith has done a case in collaboration wirh Apple for that? x
September 5, 2011 at 4:13 am
Gisèle says:
Thanks Claudia. Don’t know about being inside, just doing what I’ve done for years which is write about my favourite subjects – fashion and travel.
I would start with Paul Smith’s Facebook page. It’s updated daily and pretty helpful with regard to new pieces becoming available from the collections.
http://m.facebook.com/paulsmithdesign?_rdr
Also Paul Smith’s website is good and gives the numbers of all of his stores worldwide. The staff are particularly helpful so ring your nearest store and ask if they have the pieces you’re after. Maybe you’ve had an iffy experience doing this in the past? You’re lucky with Paul Smith, it’s a great brand to try this with as you’re guaranteed really brilliant service. It’s their ethos from the top down.
Let me know how you get on.
x
G
September 5, 2011 at 4:05 am
Freda Lalic says:
Sitting having a coffee reading this post on my iPad. Your pictures look huge, thanks so much Gisèle for posting them so big.
My most classic piece I own I bought at Margaret Howell, I keep thinking of the day when I will look at my wardrobe and be happy that I bought classic pieces that were investments. I’d like to add some of this collection to my look. The charcoal grey coat is LUSH!
Thanks Gisèle for suchan intricate post. x
Freda
September 4, 2011 at 6:19 pm
Gisèle says:
The one in the third picture right? I love that coat too.
x
September 5, 2011 at 4:15 am
Freda Lalic says:
I had a dream about this beautiful Paul Smith coat last night. Is that even possible? x
Freda
September 6, 2011 at 12:51 pm
Gisèle says:
I’m nodding here. It’s happened to me (more than once). Shhhhhhhh! x
September 6, 2011 at 3:47 pm
Nadia Stam says:
Not sure what’s on your list, but I love the grey coat in shot three and the polka dot trousers with the red cardigan and trench coat slung casually over her shoulders. Those two are mine!
Love this Gisèle. Thank You
Nadia
September 4, 2011 at 6:45 pm
Gisèle says:
Those two are mine two Nadia. Is that freaky? x
September 5, 2011 at 4:22 am
Nadia Stam says:
No not freaky at all. You have such beautiful personal style so it freaks me out that you amd I could one day be wearing the same Paul Smith red cardigan. xx Nadia
September 6, 2011 at 12:22 pm
Hatty/Helena says:
I love this post!!! Sorry to not comment sooner but have been super busy!!! I love the grey coat and the whole outfit of the first picture!!! Have to go now and get some work done.
Xxx
September 5, 2011 at 2:43 pm
Gisèle says:
Paul Smith may not have made enough grey coats to go round Hattie (joke). We all seem to want the one in the third photograph. It’s everything a coat needs to be; warm, well made and um (my favourite shade of grey). x G
September 7, 2011 at 5:42 am
nicola says:
I like it when you interweave the text and pics G, it makes it more narrative. I don’t own any Paul Smith unless you count two neon orange and royal blue diaries from the mid nineties (of course I still have them!) or the 60s style double breasted suit I made my then boyfriend buy around that time.
I love to layer but I have to be careful being so short. I think my first borrowed item was also my dad’s, a cricket cardigan my mum had hand knitted for him, he never wore it, and he didn’t often play cricket either but it smelt just right.
September 6, 2011 at 8:49 pm
Gisèle says:
Could it be that the first thing we each owned from Paul Smith was a notebook (or two) Nicola?
ANSWER: I THINK IT COULD!
You’re right, a Dad’s jumper has his special character/scent! I like the extra-long sleeves too.
Thanks mills for the feedback about the layout. I was in two minds (took a bit to figure out) but I think I’ll keep it this way for long fashion reports with lots of pictures now you’ve said it. Thanks YOU. xx G
September 7, 2011 at 5:27 am
Tatiana Neumann-Murphy says:
Oh my god Gisele this post was my favourite ever!!! It totally makes me want a preppy boyfriend so i can “borrow” something out of his wardrobe! I borrow my Dad’s jumpers all the time and where his collared tops as dresses too. You are amazing thank you so much for being you xxx
September 28, 2011 at 10:50 am
Gisèle says:
Collared tops as dresses, forgot about them, thanks for adding thus clever idea. Thanks for being you right back. X G
September 29, 2011 at 11:27 pm